While Nancy continued her hike, when I arrived at our lodging, I noticed immediately that we were in for a very special treat. Once checked in and bags in the room, I cleaned up and redressed my feet, put the flip-flops on to do a walk-about and was astounded by each and every nook and cranny of this property.
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Casa Brandariz is located in Dombodán-Arzúa. A traditional Galician farmhouse dating back to 1553, it’s built on rough terrain and provides easy access to the beautiful Galician countryside. But Casa Brandariz was so much more – a
n ideal place for our well-deserved rest before our last stage towards Santiago de Compostela. (It’s “only a 25 minute drive” to Santiago, however, translated to hiking time, we still had two more days to go.) I didn’t know this at the time, but due to the Casa’s proximity to the Camino trail, the Northern, Primitive and our route, El Camino de Santiago, all 3 trails converged in this area.
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This restored, rustic, country-style “lodge” consists of two distinct areas, each immensely soothing to my eyes and soul. The first part: the main lobby with seating around a large hearth fireplace that not only warms guests, but when looking up, there were slowly-smoked homemade sausages and hams; the dining room with wine cabinets and racks, overhead lights adorned with white lace; a softly lit, relaxing combination lounge and library with a small TV. Ages old traditional furniture and items graced every room. The other part consists of eight fully-equipped double rooms with private bathrooms, some of which offer rooms with a balcony and views across the surrounding landscape. I believe had the best in the house…
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When I walked back outside from the main lobby and took the few steps down to the thick green Dutch door to our room, I was filled not only with wonder, but also a kind of “what the heck!” Once in though… oh my! A beautifully rich room with red painted walls, a huge window that opened its sashes out to the countryside and hills in the distance; then a glance back at our door from the inside. This sounds weird, I know, but the entrance to the bathroom wasn’t just a matter of opening a door and you’re in; first was a walk down a hallway of shower stalls. Then, in the bath, such a unique and ever so perfect bay window inlaid with stone.
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Next door, built in 1797, is the Iglesia de San Cristobal de Dombodán, a parish church dedicated to the worship of his patron Saint Christopher. The three large figures that adorn the front are images of San Cristobal, Santiago and San Pedro. To the right is the cemetery containing family tombs.
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This is a place I would return to in a heartbeat! One night was surely not enough, which can be a tough pill to swallow because our Camino lodging was arranged ahead of time (i.e. if pilgrims have the time to walk the entire 500 kms, they often wing it each day/night re: their stays). That said, you potential future guests: the restaurant served characteristic and delectable regional dishes with local products. Breakfast was available in the room and packed lunches could also be arranged. There was also a short shuttle service back to the trail for Camino de Santiago pilgrims. If not doing a pilgrimage, enjoy the surrounding Galician countryside using Casa Brandariz as your hub!
Arrival at Casa Brandariz.
The front entrance. Note that BOTH the main door to the lobby (left) and our room (down some steps to the right) are thick wooden “Dutch” doors; the top half can be opened separately from the bottom. How fun!!
Unique seat.
The garden to the left of the main entrance.
Second floor room with a balcony. Our room was just below.
Quaint, quiet outdoor seating at the Casa’s front entrance.
The door of the main entrance came with a greeter who became my pal. He reminded me so much of Trapper, I thought perhaps they’re related.
Told you we became pals!
This and the previous 2 photos are of the main lobby. Reminded me of some of the ski lodges I’ve been to in the states! Thick wood, cozy, comfort…
The 5 photos above: golden room key; what lies inside – from the main entrance and down a few steps to our room; the other side of the thick wooden Dutch door. And what a room!! This was such a surprise luxury for a couple of pilgrims.
Redrum! … and a lovely view from our window (below 2 images).
Opened the door for the restroom only to find a long hallway with 3-4 shower stalls to the left. Thankfully, it was well lit.
My favorite window unit!
Looking out over the Spanish countryside, farmlands and noticed a few cows on the near horizon.
Oranges!! Big, fat, gorgeous oranges!
There were several orange trees just off to the left of the Casa’s driveway.
Sorry, I haven’t seen an orange tree since a long ago road trip through Florida; so, one final orange tree shot!
Overcast skies can’t hurt this view of purple wildflowers, green grasslands and blue hills!
Eye level to the property of a church and cemetery next door and just below Casa Brandariz.
Closeup of the purple, green and blue.
Above, the first 4 images are different shots of the Iglesia de San Cristobal. Down the steps and to the right of the church are cemetery rows of family tombs.
The holy cross becomes the centerpiece.
An all-encompassing religious scene.
Family Brandariz.
To the right of the check-in area, an old world hearth of a fireplace.
There was enough room in this area to seat several weary pilgrims, but I arrived earlier than most. My little piggies were toast – pun intended (from the last few days of hiking and then drying out with warmth from the fire)! Images further below: looking up the chimney chute, sausages and hams were being slow smoked to perfection.
The dining room’s wine cupboard.
Preparations begin in the dining room for the dinner crowd.
The warm ambiance of the dining room lighting.
Wine overflows everywhere; we were in all the way!!!
On the wall, photos from the past. I think the one in the upper left may have been the land that Casa Brandariz stands on now?
Nothing like the warmth of a small combo lounge and library.
Time for some quiet reading.
